Summary: Maasai Mara wildlife Reserve, being famous in the world for its wildlife and wildebeests immigration, is located in northwest part of Kenya Africa , which has 1800 Squ.K.mt and is less than 1/7 of whatever covering the Serengeti, Tanzania. Each year from the end of July to beginning of August, the famous immigration of several million wildebeests kicks off at Maasai Mara, Kenya, who will cross the Mara River from North bank to South bank, tracing the rain and fresh grass in Serengeti, Tanzania, which attracts the wildlife lovers, who might suffer the poor transportation, environment and poor board & lodging, dusty air on muddy or sand-rocky roads inside the Maasai Mara Reserve, of all over the world to flock into Kenya's Masai Mara for getting a glimpse of more than four million wildebeests, more than a thousand lions and lioness, cheetahs and leopards and all various African wild animals. The scenario of the most famous wildebeests’ crossing Mara River from Kenya side towards Tanzania by the end of July to beginning of August each year seems to be the biggest wildlife immigration on planet as far as the population and scale of wildlifes are concerned，which is so stunning that every people seems be deeply impressed.
乘多程國際航班、候機和轉機輾轉三十二小時后抵達簡易如汽車站的肯尼亞首都內羅畢國際機場(Nairobi, Kenya)到達廳，疲憊不堪排兩個小時隊辦落地簽證，在內羅畢廢氣霧霾和坑坑洼洼沙塵滾滾通向馬賽馬拉保護區狹窄多塵土砂石國道及土路上顛簸六、七個小時才抵達三百公里外保護區露營地，途經無數四處透風的簡破鐵皮屋泥土路構成的村舍或小鎮，泥土路上的沙塵暴未能阻隔那如黃土高坡缺水缺衛生的荒涼臟亂視野，小鎮、村落或高墻鐵絲網包圍的露營地外到處是遺棄垃圾或牛羊排泄物，手拿鞭子身披馬賽黑紅兩色格子披風的馬賽牧牛羊人在黃塵土路邊趕著牛羊群，馬塞馬拉野生動物保護區( Maasai Mara Reserve)內泥土路是晴天塵土飛揚雨天泥濘不堪蚊蠅漫天，早晚冷得要穿羽絨衣，中午熱的如蒸桑拿浴，沒有網絡晚上七點天黑才有電，洗熱水澡或喝熱茶是奢侈企盼，每天清晨五六點出發去馬賽馬拉野生動物保護區狩獵，在顛簸多塵的泥砂路上志愿當“人工肺吸塵機”并接受狂顛汽車強加的“非洲按摩”，一切看似在經歷二十一世紀黑非洲貧窮落后欠文明的歷練折磨，但即便在如此艱苦惡劣環境條件下，世界各地的野生動物愛好者依然絡繹不絕蜂擁而至馬賽馬拉，為的是一睹有四百多萬頭角馬，一千多頭獅子，獵豹和花豹和各種動物的有野生動物王國之稱的肯尼亞馬塞馬拉保護區的野生動物群芳并親眼觀看被BBC炒紅的舉世聞名的“非洲角馬大遷徙”。
位于非洲東部肯尼亞一千八百平方公里馬賽馬拉保護區(Maasai Mara Reserve)雖只有坦桑尼亞塞倫蓋提草原(Serengeti, Tanzania)的七分之一大，但廣袤無垠的丘陵草原遍布斑馬角馬彷如世外的動物世界，沒有濃云陰天的馬賽馬拉每天都上演著旭日東升陽光普照的美景，遠看如黑芝麻般密密麻麻幾乎將山坡覆蓋的有如天上白云多的成群斑馬角馬在悠閑低頭吃草，跳羚或蹬羚身體的橙色皮毛在綠草中格外鮮艷醒目，渾身肌肉爆滿的非洲野?；蚝玉R是最容易發火攻擊游客的動物，步履優雅形態美麗的長頸鹿、獵豹或花斑豹是游客摯愛，屬于瀕危動物的黑犀牛是“非洲五大”之一，固守領地巡邏的雄獅和捕獵母獅讓人敬畏，渾身長著黑毛幼鬣狗怎么看不像成年鬣狗兇殘，性情暴躁的河馬在馬拉河中會讓渡河的角馬以為是水中之王的鱷魚而猶豫不決，幾頭母獅追逐角馬情景讓人明白獵殺并非想象中輕而易舉不費吹灰之力，二三十只禿鷲在草原上空巡回飛翔尋找獅子獵豹的殘羹剩飯，總愛翹著尾巴小跑的疣豬是獵豹和獅子的最愛，而這一切都不如現場觀看似千軍萬馬般氣勢宏偉的角馬橫渡馬拉河精彩和激動人心。七月底至八月初在肯尼亞境內的素有“草原割草機”的角馬開始了動物世界最大規模和數量的從肯尼亞馬賽馬拉往坦桑尼亞賽林蓋提的越境遷徙。它們從北往南越過邊境追隨著降雨和新鮮生長的嫩草，數萬頭角馬如同訓練有素的軍隊一波接一波從陡峭的河岸上沖入鱷魚河馬游蕩的如同黃河水渾濁的馬拉河奔騰跳躍上河對岸開始它們的大遷徙，此時此刻角馬的高聲鳴叫和它們在河水中跳躍奔騰沖擊河水的擊水三千喧囂聲在一公里外都能聽見，這就是BBC動物世界中拍攝的最震撼最激動人心的角馬橫渡馬拉河紀錄片中的經典一幕。原來以為從遠山遠行而來的角馬會奮不顧身勇往直前沖入渾濁河中蹦跳到對岸，而親眼所見事實并非如此。面對馬拉河中鱷魚和河馬，在河岸邊集結的數萬頭角馬會因為視力極差分不出河馬或鱷魚，只要看到河水中有浮出水面的大眼睛就立馬退縮回岸上。角馬們就這樣猶豫不決，在馬拉河邊來來回回上上下下彷徨磨蹭幾個小時，有幾次角馬的前蹄都碰到河水了但看見河馬影子它們又慌張地飛跑上河岸邊，因為記憶告訴它們，誰先過河誰就會第一個被鱷魚吃或被河馬咬死而丟掉性命，尤其是年幼的河馬更是猶豫不決。先期隨其它角馬過河的數匹幼年角馬過河后找不到媽媽又重新回到馬拉河南岸高聲鳴叫呼喊在河北岸的母親與親戚，而河南岸的角馬母親及親戚們似乎焦慮不安急切想渡河與親友團聚，無奈只能用腳蹄猛蹭地面，因為渡河隊伍最前面的角馬群猶豫躊躇裹足不前。因為在一個角馬南渡河口上水中有四頭河馬浮現河中，成千上萬準備渡河角馬最后在猶豫等待數小時后放棄渡河而飛奔去上游的五個最大渡河口中的一個渡河口。此時越聚越多的角馬煩躁不安，它們在馬拉河渡口岸邊空地上來回徘徊磨蹭而揚起陣陣沙塵，最終幾頭壯角馬率先沖入渾濁河水并奮力奔騰著跑向對岸，緊隨其后是成千上萬頭角馬轟轟烈烈地一波接一波沖向南岸，它們從北岸沖入河時腳踢揚起沙土遮天蔽地，而它們腳蹄撞擊地面和巖石的聲音，它們高聲嘶鳴和在水中奔騰跳躍擊水聲震天動地，原來角馬群橫渡馬拉河竟有如此勢不可擋的磅礴氣勢，但渾濁馬拉河上漂浮著被鱷魚吃剩的斑馬角馬殘尸似乎在向游人述說著它們大遷徙的代價。
雖上萬頭角馬渡河只用不到半小時，但它們在馬拉河北岸猶豫徘徊裹足不前的三、四個小時反映出來的動物貪生怕死本性似乎與人類無異。面對被鱷魚無情吃掉或被河馬追殺，角馬群在馬拉河邊的三四個小時猶豫躊躇值得同情理解，因為生而懼怕死是人類及自然界動物與生俱來的本性，而最后結局是以少數角馬的犧牲換來大多數角馬的平安渡河大遷徙，物競天擇竟是如此美麗而凄慘。
----------------------------------------------
01 清晨時分的馬賽馬拉野生動物保護區彷如伊甸園(Maasai Mara in early morning before sunrise)
02 日出前的馬賽馬拉一片寧靜祥和(peaceful and quiet morning at Maasai Mara Reserve, Kenya)
03 馬賽馬拉的日出，每天早上五點半出發天天看到日出(sunrise at the Maasai Mara Reserve, that we could see every morning)。
04 清晨吃草的斑馬與小羚羊 （zibra and steenbox are eating grass in the early morning）
05 清晨在吃草的普通小羚羊(a common Duiker is eating grass in the morning)
06 清晨站在丘陵上的斑馬，它們互相守望互保(Zebras are standing together and watching behind for each other as its defence position)。
07 非洲常見的長頸鹿(a group of Giraffes are easily spotted in Maasia Mara)
08 長頸鹿有力的長腿是對付獅子攻擊的有力武器(the powerful legs of Giraffe are the strong weapon to fight against the lioness)。
09 在草原上漫步的轉角羚（a Kudu is wondering in grassland）
10 斑馬相互防衛的站立姿態（zebras are at their rest but their standing position show their defending each other by watching each other back side）
11 “非洲五霸”之一的非洲大象（Elephent is one of African Big five）
12 肯尼亞的國鳥--灰冠鶴（grey crowned crane is the state bird of Kenya）
13 專吃蛇蜥蜴的秘書鳥（the secretary bird is the killer of snake and lizard）
14 埃及鵝帶著兩只寶寶（Egyptian goose with chicks）
15 站在非洲野牛背上的“黃嘴啄蟲椋鳥”（yellow-billed Oxpecker）
16 正在打架的非洲禿鷲（an African vulture is fighting with another one）
17 一對年輕姐妹母獅在尋找獵物（a pair of young lioness are looking for preys）
18 一頭年輕母獅在追蹤角馬，單槍匹馬單干是很難捕殺的。（a lonely lioness is running after a group of wildebeests, but it is impossible for her to make a kill）
19 一頭健壯雄獅正在自己領地巡邏并留下自己的氣味（a strong lion is patroling and marking his territory）。
20 一雙年輕雌獅姐妹在尋找獵物 （a pair of young lioness are looking for preys）
21 雄獅正在巡視領地，它的工作是保護領地和與母獅做愛（a lion is patroling its territory）
22 一頭壯年母獅在追尋獵物（a lioness is looking for preys）
23一頭雄獅在保衛其領地（ a lion is watching at its territory）
24 一頭母獅正在搜尋獵物 (a young lioness is searching for preys)。
25 一頭母獅正在搜尋獵物 (a young lioness is searching for preys)。
26 雌獅血口大口的猙獰面目（a lioness is opening its bloody mouth terribly )
27 早上獨行的獵豹走著優雅的“時裝貓步” (a lonely cheetah is walking under early sunshine lik a fashion model)
28 在領地搜索獵物的身材俏麗的獵豹(a beautiful cheetah is looking around for preys)
29 在領地搜索獵物身材美麗的獵豹(a beautiful cheetah is looking around for preys)
30 半躺想象著的獵豹(a laying down cheetah in the morning)
31 傍晚時分站在樹上的獵豹 (a cheetah is standing on branch of tree at dusk)
32 傍晚時分站在樹上的獵豹(a cheetah is standing on branch of tree at dusk)
33 獵豹正在吃捕殺到的美味疣豬排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
34 獵豹正在吃捕殺到的美味疣豬排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
35 獵豹正在吃捕殺到的美味疣豬排骨(a cheetah is eating the body of waterhog that it killed early)
36 吃的肚子溜圓的獵豹半躺著休息，它們吃飽后要2-3天后才會再次捕殺獵物(after finishing its meal, a cheetah is laying down for rest, it would not hunt for 2-3 days)。
37 神出鬼沒的花豹最難看到(it is hard to see a leopard who always hides deeply in bushes, trees or grassland)。
38 鬣狗媽媽和它的小崽(a spotted Hyaena with its cub)。
39 馬拉河到處有準備吃大遷徙渡河的角馬的尼羅鱷魚(a crocodile is ready to kill any wildebeest crossing the Mara River for big migration)
40 在水中的河馬兇狠無比，連鱷魚也要讓它三分(a group of Hippos are in Mara River, they may kill the wildebeest crossing the river)
41 在河岸邊漫步的河馬(a big Hippo is walking alongside of the river bank)
42 在丘陵山坡上邊吃草邊聚集的準備大遷徙的角馬群(Preparing for migration, the wildebeest group gathered on the hillside)
43 渡河口山坡上聚集了成千上萬頭欲過馬拉河的角馬群(thousand of wildebeests are getting together at the crossing point of Mara River)
44 在渡河口猶豫彷徨的角馬群(thousands of wildebeests are wandering around the river crossing point hesitatedly)
45 站在馬拉河北岸準備渡河的角馬群(a tribe of wildebeests are ready for crossing Mara River)
46 在馬拉河渡口岸邊空地上來回徘徊，又下又上猶豫不決的角馬群，害怕被鱷魚吃掉，害怕被河馬咬死，貪生怕死不是人的專利,動物也是一樣。(the wildebeests are getting down and up again and again for hours without determination)
47 已度過馬拉河但站在南岸等待并呼叫北岸的親戚或兄弟姐妹的角馬群(at south bank of Mara River, a group of wildebeests are calling their friends or relatives to come and joint them)
48 最先渡河的壯年角馬看到河中的鱷魚后急忙退縮回河岸的瞬間，許多打頭陣渡河的角馬有被鱷魚吃了或被河馬咬傷咬死(seeing a crocodile in water, a wildebeest is running back to the north bank of Mara River)。
49 集體大渡河終于開始了，一批又一批的角馬爭先恐后從河北岸沖入河中，飛沙塵土滾滾(the mass action of crossing river finally start among the tribe of wildebeests)。
50 猶如千軍萬馬的角馬群渡河隊伍勢不可擋(Like thousands of army and military horses, the group of wildebeests crossing Mara river seems unstoppable).
51 猶如千軍萬馬的角馬群渡河隊伍勢不可擋(Like thousands of army and military horses, the group of wildebeests crossing Mara river seems unstoppable).
52 沖入河中的角馬群高聲嘶鳴和它們渡河沖擊水聲在一公里外都能聽見(the sound of wildebeest beating the river water and their loudly shouting could be heard several miles away)
53 因為有鱷魚和河馬的威脅，每頭角馬都是跳躍渡河的(every wildebeest is jumping over the water to avoid being attacked by crocodile or Hippos in the river)。
54 角馬到達南岸后奮力跳躍上巖石坡(it is leaping up to the slop of the river bank)。
55 角馬群到達南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeests on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
56 角馬群到達南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeest on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
57 角馬群到達南岸后急速爬上河岸的情景(a tribe of wildebeest on arrival of south bank of Mara River)。
58 角馬群渡河后與先前到達的角馬家族兄弟姐妹匯合，之后它們將前往坦桑尼亞的塞倫蓋提草原(a tribe of wildebeests has reunioned with their friends who came early to the south bank of river, they will soon head to Serengeti, Tanzania)。
59 角馬群渡河后與先前到達的角馬家族兄弟姐妹匯合，之后它們將前往坦桑尼亞的塞倫蓋提草原，完成本次越界遷徙(a tribe of wildebeest has reunioned with their friends who came early to the south bank of river, they will soon head to Serengeti, Tanzania,the big migration will then end)。
60 肯尼亞馬賽馬拉縮影（miniature of Maasai Mara Reserve, Kenya）
拍攝經驗分享：
攝影器材：兩部尼康D850和D810相機，尼康24-120毫米鏡頭；尼康300-500毫米長焦鏡（兩機配兩鏡，馬賽馬拉塵土超大，避免野外換鏡頭）。
拍攝參數：M檔，光圈 F8；快門S 1 / 1250；ISO 自動（ISO限制最高600）；白平衡：自動；測光方式：中心重點測光, 對焦：點對焦，相機優化調整：人像；用Fn-On背按鈕鎖定對焦后用CH連拍方式拍攝。拍攝后注意現場查看相機背后的“直方圖”，對于尼康相機寧而言，寧欠勿曝和向左曝光。用RAW格式儲存拍攝的文件。白天拍攝野生動物在顯示屏上不易看出曝光正確程度，故須查看“直方圖”，看看像數有否過溢出右方（過曝）而調整加減EV值。
拍攝經驗：肯尼亞馬賽馬拉沙土粉塵特多，故最好帶兩機配長短兩個鏡頭而避免在野外更換鏡頭。在敞篷的越野車上無法使用三腳架或獨腳架長焦鏡頭,用豆袋支撐或手托拍攝。用600定焦鏡頭手持拍攝過于沉重，建議用輕便的長焦變焦鏡頭（除非自己單獨包車用腳架），200-500或150-600長焦變焦鏡頭是不錯的選擇。開機拍攝前記得用“氣吹”將鏡頭和遮光罩吹干凈,狩獵過程食無定時，最好自帶干糧充饑。必須自帶幾只厚棉口罩擋灰濾塵（普通醫用口罩太?。?/span>。
作者聲明：作者原創短文,全部照片由作者拍攝非洲肯尼亞的馬賽馬拉野生動物保護區。歡迎收藏，轉發和評論留言,但是謝絕“洗稿”或抄襲盜用到其它公眾號上。閱后滿意請點贊，你的鼓勵是對作者原創的最大支持。
